Trip Report - Baxter State Park 3/13 - 3/18

“Man is born to die, his works are short-lived. Buildings crumble, monuments decay, wealth vanishes. But Katahdin, in all its glory, forever shall remain the mountain of the people of Maine.”

Last week was one for the ages in Maine's finest wilderness area, Baxter State Park. We had a perfect weather window to do some corn harvesting with one of the most picturesque backdrops in the United States. It was a phenomenal experience to explore Katahdin and all it has to offer to us Winter enthusiasts, which is certainly more than we could tackle in a few day window. The park has endless opportunity for those seeking adventure, a true lifetime of skiing packed into one mountain system. I'll go day by day and break down what it was like to spend 6 days off the grid (spoiler - it was rad).

Day 1 - Approach to Roaring Brook

Me and Shawny left the valley bright and early to meet up with Alex, Abby, and Kyle who were either in the park or waiting for us in Millinocket. Some Leavitts donuts and a Red Bull or two helped us make the drive up and begin our 13 mile trek. Luckily it was a beautiful day for a walk and we had the bunkhouse waiting for us at the end of it all. My boots did a number on me after a while but other than that it was smooth sailing. We crossed paths with some familiar faces en route which was a nice mental boost. Once at the cabin it was time to let the feet rest, get settled in, and enjoy a nice first night off the grid.

A stunning sunrise greeted us as we made our way up the Maine Turnpike

Lots of this on the first day - hauling sleds and looking at trees

Getting eyes on the mountain from afar was a nice boost a few miles into the approach

Photo: Alex Dyson

Day 2 - Hamlin Ridge Gullies

It was a relief to get the sled off as we skinned up to Chimney Pond and regrouped before deciding on Hamlin Ridge as the zone of the day. I could feel the excitement building as we get a few nice peeks of the mountain before hitting Chimney Pond. We approached Great Basin via the Saddle Trail then crossed a side hill and booted up the next slide over to begin our day. After topping out, we crossed over via the hiking trail and found the first line of the day. This was arguably the best snow of the trip as we skied three of the Hamlin Ridge Gullies, also the lines with the best backdrop in the Northeast if you ask me.

Once our legs were satisfied we make the short bushwack out to Saddle Brook, down the ski trail and back to Chimney Pond. The descent from here back to Roaring Brook was firm and fast, almost too fast in some spots. It was once again time to chill, make some dinner, and enjoy the company of friends around the table before heading to bed and doing it all over again. How lucky are we!

Abby taking in the view at Chimney Pond before heading into the alpine for the day

Photo: Alex Dyson

A view of our objective for the day

Alex booting up the first gully to get our day started

Photo: Shawn Favreau

Kyle balling up on and off the court

Shawny crossing Hamlin Ridge to access our line(s)

Photo: Alex Dyson

Cruisin' down the gullies

Photo: Alex Dyson

Abby rippin' down the runout of our first line of the day

Photo: Alex Dyson

Shawny getting the most out of the day carving turns till the end

Day 3 - Summit Day!

With another sunny and warm day on tap, it was time to take the skis for a walk and touch some signs. We packed up early, hauled the sleds up to Chimney Pond, hit the reset button and began our ascent. Taking the usual approach of the Saddle, we gained the ridge, entered the wind, then crossed the Tablelands to approach the summit. Given the snowpack we encountered ice, rocks, scoured snow, and everything in between. We powered through and made our way up to the summit, occasionally dipping behind a rock for a quick break from the wind. It was a special moment to stand atop the Greatest Mountain and revel in the satisfaction of being there after yearning to be for so long. 

After a quick group photo we made our way back down the ridge then over to South Bowl to ski a line over there. This ended up being one of my favorites of the trip - a long, wide open, consistent slope that felt like it was never ending. The downside is the booter back up, also seemingly never ending. Good thing we enjoyed a nice lunch break beforehand! Once we gained the ridge again it was time to fight the wind while we made our descent back towards the Saddle. We enjoyed a nice ski back down the Saddle with a clean entrance to Saddle Brook which made getting back to camp a breeze. Good times ensued as we all hung out by the lean to and enjoyed the warm spring air before it was time for bed yet again.

First look at the alpine for the day

Taking a load off at the top of the Saddle

Crossing the Tabelands approaching the summit

Katahdin summit!

Kyle dropping into South Bowl - the longest run of the trip

Taking a breather and soaking in the view from the top of South Bowl

Day 4 - North Basin & Taber Gully

With the winds remaining overnight and some rain in the forecast for the afternoon the crew wasn't too motivated for a big day in the early hours. After putzing around camp for a bit we decided to get out to try and beat the rain. Making our way to Blueberry Knoll, we got eyes on North Basin from afar and planned our route into the ravine. We opted to backtrack and follow a snowfield on the lower reaches of Hamlin Ridge to gain the floor of the ravine. This proved to be a smooth way in as we only lost snow for a few short stretches. Once into the ravine we discussed a bit and opted to ascend then ski Taber Gully. I was hesitant at first given how fast clouds were moving on the ridge but am glad we made the decision to go for it. The climb was smooth and the descent was great with a little steep skiing at the top, just enough to get the blood pumping a bit. 

Once back at the floor of the ravine we found our ascent line up to Hamlin Ridge in hopes of connecting it back into the zone we skied the first day. The boot up was straightforward but required a traverse at the top which was a tad spicy with some ice overhanging. At this point the weather was rolling in which made for a bit of type 2 fun topping out on the ridge and finding the entrance to our Hamlin descent. Shoutout to Shawny for taking point and navigating! Sticky snow greeted us on Hamlin followed by another bushwack into the brook. Saddle brook had partially blown out at that point which made for an interesting descent, water skiing came early this year. 

Once back at camp we had a decision to make - pack up and head down to Roaring Brook or risk getting stuck at Chimney for a few days given the impending rain and sub-sequential flooding. We hustled to get the sleds together and made the ski down to an empty bunkhouse, passing some more familiar faces on their way in for a long stint.  Once back at low camp it was time to rest up and let the rain pass before exiting the park. We managed to squeeze in much more than anticipated for the day so everyone went to bed satisfied!

AM lean to life - its not WMSC Coffee Co but it'll do!

North Basin as seen from Blueberry Knoll

Some neat clouds looking towards Basin Pond

A closer look at Taber Gully - line is in the center of the photo

Alex making some smooth turns through Taber Gully

The climb back out of North Basin and onto Hamlin Ridge - via the lookers left gully

The wet part of the descent down Saddle Brook - more fun than expected!

Day 5 - Rest Day

After three days of hard skiing it was time to lay low, dry out, and put a dent in our food bags before heading home. A chill day was just what we needed, swapping stories and sharing childhood memories as the hours passed. A mid day nap was followed by some more snacking, card games, and getting gear dialed for the road home. As nightfall approached we did some light packing and enjoyed one last freeze dried meal before re-entering the real world. Satisfied with the last few days, we all went to bed with a full cup that night.

Enjoying the flowing waters of Roaring Brook

Drying gear out around the wood stove

One of many rounds of Cribbage played

Day 6 - The Long Road Home

After a fantastic few days immersed in nature it was time to pack up and make the long trek out of the park. We got an early start and made great time out, cruising on the downhills to start. After the gatehouse the road became a bit grittier with fallen debris and ice, making it a tougher effort to get out. It was a major load off our shoulders to see the car again, a bittersweet feeling for sure. After a pint and a pie at Knife's Edge Brewing, we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. This was certainly a trip to remember!

Saying goodbye to the Roaring Brook bunkhouse

The long road home...

One last view of the mountain - till next time!

**All photos are my own unless stated otherwise** - it was tough narrowing them down, so many great shots to choose from!

Cover photo by Alex Dyson